Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368 CE)
traditional crafts
UNESCO Intangible Heritage
East China
active
Nanjing Yunjin, meaning "Cloud Brocade," is a luxurious silk textile woven on traditional wooden looms using gold and silver threads. Originating in the Yuan Dynasty and flourishing through Ming and Qing, it was reserved for imperial robes and court decorations. The craft requires extraordinary skill — a master weaver and assistant work together on a massive loom, producing only a few centimeters per day.
Skills & Techniques
Yunjin Brocade Weaving expand_more
The traditional technique of weaving Nanjing Yunjin brocade on a "Da Hualou" wooden loom, requiring two master weavers working in synchronization.
Steps
- Design the pattern on graph paper (huapu)
- Prepare silk threads and dye them with natural pigments
- Wind gold and silver threads onto bobbins
- Set up the Da Hualou wooden loom with warp threads
- The master weaver pulls the pattern cords while the assistant throws the shuttle
- Beat the weft threads tightly to create a dense fabric
- Inspect and trim excess threads from the finished piece
Tools
Da Hualou wooden loom, bobbins, shuttle, pattern cords, scissors, comb beater
Materials
silk threads, gold threads, silver threads, natural dyes, peacock feather threads
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